THE CARTIER PALM TREE DIAMOND CLIP BROOCH
THE CARTIER PALM TREE DIAMOND CLIP BROOCH

Details
THE CARTIER PALM TREE DIAMOND CLIP BROOCH
Set with circular and baguette-cut diamond leaves with briolette-cut diamond coconuts to the pavé-set articulated trunk, 1939, with French assay marks
Signed by Cartier, Paris, no. 07553
Literature
"Cartier: Splendeurs de La Joaillerie", La Bibliothéque des Arts, Lausanne, 1996, page 155

Franco Cologni and Eric Nussbaum, "Platinum by Cartier, Triumphs of the Jewelers' Art", Harry N. Abrams, Inc., 1996, page 214

Musée du Petit Palais, "The Art of Cartier", Diffusion Paris-Musées, Paris, 1989, page 163

Lot Essay

Exotic themes were very fashionable in the performing and visual arts of the 1920s and 1930s. There was "La Revue Nègre" which had its premiere at the music hall Champs des Elysées in 19xx. The star dancer, Josephine Baker, became a much talked about figure, particularly celebrated for stunts such as walking about town with a panther. In the visual arts, the famous photographer, Man Ray, exhibited his famous picture "Noire et Blanche" in 1926. It depicted a model with her head tilted in contrast to an African mask. As for jewellery, the exhibition "Les Arts Précieux" on the occasion of the 1931 Colonial Exhibition brought exotic influences to bear on the modern creators. Designers such as Jean Fouquet and Raymond Templier produced brooches incorporating statuettes and tribal masks.

The present brooch is the apotheosis of the Art Deco trend towards exoticism. It also represents Cartier at their most creative. Produced in 1939, the manufacture is exquisite.

Interestingly, the jewel's form echoes the palm trees cast in a pair of doors by Armand Albert Rateau (see above image) created for the "Pavillon d'Elégance" at the 1925 "Exposition des Arts Décoratifs". It happened to be the building in which Cartier exhibited, as they chose to forego displaying with the rest of the jewellers in the Grand Palais. A print representing the doors was published in the special edition of the "Gazette du Bon Ton" accompanying the exhibit.

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