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Over the centuries, clockmaking has evolved not just in precision and technical capability but also as an art form. With imagination of design and decoration, Pendules a sujet clocks with movements that rested on the backs of animals from the 18th century and the pendules mysterieuses of the Blois clockmaker Robert Houdin of the 19th century contributed to clocks as precious works of art and not just functional timepieces.
The first quarter of the twentieth century produced some of the most spectacular clocks ever seen with the world's leading jewelry houses taking over from the traditional clockmaker. These were times of fantasy with no expense spared, precious metals and jewels being used in new and imaginative designs.
It is fitting that the earliest clock in this exceptional collection is by Cartier, as it was this firm that arguably led the way in this art form. The Belle Epoque period was one of grace and nostalgia and the refined elegance of the guilloché enamel combined with the charming message around the dial evokes the image of a time almost untouchable with prosperity and optimism. With a complicated quarter repeating movement this clock is a rare and wonderful example of technical excellence and beauty.
The imagination of the Art Deco period brought new and fresh ideas to every aspect of design. Old ways were abandoned with shapes and color challenged in so many ways. LaCloche Frères was one of the great Parisian jewelers, perhaps most well known for their Egyptian revival jewelry they also produced exceptional objects that could rival any house in the world. The fountain clock here perfectly illustrates the fantasy world of the Art Deco period and the lateral thought that went behind these new designs. A carved black opal fish "swims" around the perimeter of the horizontal dial of water in a fountain indicating the time.
Not to be eclipsed by their European cousins, American jewelry houses were also at the forefront of this exciting era and the New York firm Black Starr & Frost made a small number of pieces that were able to rival the Atelier's of Paris. Black Starr & Frost is the oldest jewelry house in America and although originally founded in Savannah, Georgia in 1801 they moved their premises to New York a few years later to enjoy the growth of this young and exciting city.
Arguably the most spectacular clock in this collection is the triptych pedestal block with a simple plain exterior that when opened displays a shock of color and decoration with panels displayed in the oriental manner highlighted with carved lapis lazuli figures. The other example of their work is an extremely rare mystery clock with diamond set hands that appear to float in air. The perimeter of the dial is decorated with mother of pearl and hardstone, which is the work of Vladimir Makovsky (1884-1966). The son of an artistic Russian family he worked in France throughout the Art Deco period and was commissioned on both sides of the Atlantic. His miniature scenes are based on lacquer, hardstone and mother-of-pearl inlays of the 18th and 19th centuries showing Islamic friezes and miniatures as well as European narrative genre scenes. His work is seen on many types of Art Deco objects including clocks, vanity cases and cigar boxes.
These four clocks are a wonderful representation of the clockmaker's art in the earlier part of the twentieth century and stand as testament to the will of human nature never content on settling for the ordinary.
A MAGNIFICENT ART DECO ENAMEL, DIAMOND AND GEM-SET CHINOISERIE DESK CLOCK, BY VERGER FRÈRES, BLACK, STARR & FROST
Details
A MAGNIFICENT ART DECO ENAMEL, DIAMOND AND GEM-SET CHINOISERIE DESK CLOCK, BY VERGER FRÈRES, BLACK, STARR & FROST
The black lacquer case enhanced by rose-cut diamonds and purpurine accents, surmounted by a purpurine finial with push-piece, opening to reveal a square dial painted with chinoiserie floral decoration, with applied rose-cut diamond chapters and pavé-set diamond and black enamel hands, with carved foliate lapis lazuli plaques, the doors inset with carved lazurite and similarly painted plaques, on carved purpurine supports and stepped black enamel base, mounted in silver, gold and platinum, circa 1927, 8 x 51/8 x 33/8 ins., with French assay marks, in a fitted leather case signed Black, Starr & Frost, Gorham, Inc., New York
Signed Black, Starr & Frost, No. 10230
Movement signed Vacheron & Constantin, No. 404143
The black lacquer case enhanced by rose-cut diamonds and purpurine accents, surmounted by a purpurine finial with push-piece, opening to reveal a square dial painted with chinoiserie floral decoration, with applied rose-cut diamond chapters and pavé-set diamond and black enamel hands, with carved foliate lapis lazuli plaques, the doors inset with carved lazurite and similarly painted plaques, on carved purpurine supports and stepped black enamel base, mounted in silver, gold and platinum, circa 1927, 8 x 51/8 x 33/8 ins., with French assay marks, in a fitted leather case signed Black, Starr & Frost, Gorham, Inc., New York
Signed Black, Starr & Frost, No. 10230
Movement signed Vacheron & Constantin, No. 404143
Literature
For an illustration of this clock see:
Lit. Penny Proddow and Debra Healy, "American Jewelry; Glamour and Tradition," Office du Livre, S.A., Fribourg, 1987, page 94
Lit. Penny Proddow and Debra Healy, "American Jewelry; Glamour and Tradition," Office du Livre, S.A., Fribourg, 1987, page 94