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Louis Comfort Tiffany
Light, color, exoticism and naturalism were elemental themes of the oeuvre of Louis Comfort Tiffany (1848-1933). Son of founder Charles Tiffany, Louis Comfort's training in design began at an early age and was greatly influenced by his travels to Europe, the Near East and especially North Africa. His capacity to create a scope of work that included not only jewelry but glass, enamel, silver, pottery, lamps, furniture, paintings and textiles is a testament to his infallible creativity.
Of primary consideration to Louis Comfort was how a gemstone could diffuse and transform light, similar to the Impressionist painters of the 19th century. Dense lapis lazuli, opaque jade, multi-colored opals and even scarabs can be seen as continuations of his pioneering work in glass, lamps and windows. This fascination of color and light was a common thread in every aspect of his work. Here, translucent moonstones perform a dual role. Firstly, they alter the light that passes through them, so that the object beneath is blurred and obscured. Secondly, they emit a bluish adularescence that teases the observer's eye, creating a sense of mystery. Even the shapes of the moonstones featured in this piece are unusual, as they have been calibrated to accent the curve of the scroll and then act as terminations in the shape of tear-dropped fringe.
A passionate champion of American gemstones, Louis Comfort frequently utilized tourmalines from Maine, freshwater pearls from Mississippi and most notably, the periwinkle-hued sapphires from the Yogo Gulch mine in Montana, as seen in the small stones featured in this brooch. Distinctly recognizable for their unique color and brilliance, their international debut came during the 1889 Exposition in Paris at which Tiffany & Co. introduced a collection of jewelry entirely of American origin. Here, the bluish cast of the moonstones is complimented by the small concentrations of color, leading the viewer's eye to the larger center stone.
Certain design elements became a recurrent theme in Louis Comfort's creations. Taking inspiration from ancient and exotic cultures, he frequently used small scrolls to decorate his ornamental wares such as light fixtures and fire screens. Here, each corner of the central sapphire is delicately held in place by a minute scroll and then on the reverse, they form the base upon which the sapphire is mounted. Lastly, graceful platinum scrolls subtly suspend the three moonstone drops.
A RARE SAPPHIRE AND MOONSTONE BROOCH, BY LOUIS COMFORT TIFFANY, TIFFANY & CO.
Details
A RARE SAPPHIRE AND MOONSTONE BROOCH, BY LOUIS COMFORT TIFFANY, TIFFANY & CO.
Centering upon a cushion-cut sapphire, within a scrolling frame of calibré-cut moonstones, to the slightly graduated circular-cut sapphire swag trim, suspending three drop-shaped moonstone terminals with platinum filigree caps, enhanced by spiral platinum filigree detail, mounted in platinum and gold, circa 1910-1915, in its original Tiffany & Co. black leather fitted case
Signed Tiffany & Co.
Centering upon a cushion-cut sapphire, within a scrolling frame of calibré-cut moonstones, to the slightly graduated circular-cut sapphire swag trim, suspending three drop-shaped moonstone terminals with platinum filigree caps, enhanced by spiral platinum filigree detail, mounted in platinum and gold, circa 1910-1915, in its original Tiffany & Co. black leather fitted case
Signed Tiffany & Co.