AN EXQUISITE BELLE EPOQUE DIAMOND TIARA, BY CARTIER
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AN EXQUISITE BELLE EPOQUE DIAMOND TIARA, BY CARTIER

Details
AN EXQUISITE BELLE EPOQUE DIAMOND TIARA, BY CARTIER
Designed as a series of eleven graduated diamond garlands, the centre of each suspending a diamond collet within openwork cluster with swag and collet stems, also fittings to form a smaller tiara and a stomacher brooch, 1908, 29.3 cm. inner circumference, with French assay mark for platinum, in original Cartier red leather fitted case stamped 13 rue de la Paix, London 4 New Burlington St.
Signed Cartier Paris Londres, no. 1759, maker's mark GH in a lozenge for Georges Harnichard
Provenance
Made for Miss Ada Ismay on her marriage to Henry Anthony Chandos Pole, October 1908, and thence by descent
Special notice
No VAT will be charged on the hammer price, but VAT at 17.5% will be added to the buyer's premium which is invoiced on a VAT inclusive basis

Lot Essay

The tiara is a superb example of the "garland style" that dominated mainstream jewellery design from 1895-1915. It reflected so well the refined elegance of the early 20th century aristocratic living before that particular way of life was shattered forever by the First World War. Cartier has been instrumental in developing the Louis XVI vogue in jewellery design and the firm excelled in this style, creating in the process many of the first platinum and diamond jewels of the 20th century.
The garland style took its inspiration from pre-revolutionary 18th century France and incorporated garlands, wreaths, flowers, classical vases, latticework and bows. As jewellery of this period became closely linked to fashion, the jewels were made to resemble the best quality fabrics. The style coincided with an unrivalled technical excellence in diamond setting due to the introduction of platinum around 1900. Accompanied with a smaller frame for less formal occasions, as well as a diamond-set fitting so that the central three garlands can detach and form a stomacher brooch. This tiara is one of the finest examples of the garland style to appear at auction.
Fortunately, its original case survives, to create an outstanding opportunity to acquire an exceptional jewel in pristine state.

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