A STRIKING DIAMOND BIRD BROOCH, BY STERLE

Pierre Sterlé, the famed Parisian jeweler, consistently challenged conventional jewelry techniques and was adamant in his quest to create new ways of manufacturing jewelry. A master joaillier, Sterlé succeeded in manipulating metal as never before, resulting in bold, truly innovative designs. Although mostly conceived in the mid-20th century, his creations continue to astound today with his innovative use of precious stones and metal. Pierre Sterlé continuously found inspiration from nature. Throughout his career, he would revisit this theme many times. As Sterlé matured, so did his jewelry. However, even in his earliest days, Sterlé was a master in representing nature as he imagined it. All of his creations, whether they be abstract or literal come alive. Always finding a new and innovative way to express the natural movement and grace of floral and fauna, Sterlé was instrumental in developing ways to symbolize the natural world. Among the most common themes to appear in his work was the image of a bird. This brooch, a stylized diamond bird, mounted in platinum highlights Sterlé's accomplishments with the use of metal. The bird is dynamic, with the metal twisting and turning, giving the illusion of flight. Strong lines define the bird's movement, as the metal flows from defining a sweep of the wings to being barely visible in other areas. Never before has metal been manipulated to such a refined and elegant width. Composed of old European, circular and baguette-cut diamonds, the bird simply glistens. Sterlé's masterful ability to shape metal that seemingly wrap around the gemstones as well as the the placement of the stones at varying angles, captured and reflected light in individual ways. The movement created by the baguette-cut diamonds, gradually increasing in size, results in a piece unparalleled in its day. The bird is animated and forceful yet serene at the same time, epitomizing the restrained elegance of the 1950's.

Details

A STRIKING DIAMOND BIRD BROOCH, BY STERLE
Designed as an old European and circular-cut diamond stylized bird with baguette-cut diamond enhanced feathers, mounted in platinum and 18k white gold, circa 1950, with French assay marks and maker's mark for Sterlé et Cie, in a Sterlé Paris brown suede case
Signed Sterlé, Paris, no. A.181

Lot Essay

Cf. Viviane Jutheau, Sterlé: Joaillier Paris, Editions Vecteurs, Paris, 1990, plate T.535, A.181

Cf. Twentieth-Century Jewelry, Electa/Abbeville, Milan/New York, 1994, page 123

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