MAGNIFICENT AND HIGHLY IMPORTANT NATURAL PEARL AND DIAMOND PARURE, BY GÉRARD INCLUDING AN EXCEPTIONAL BUTTON-SHAPED NATURAL PEARL AND A DIAMOND ETERNITY RING

Louis Gérard, formerly of Van Cleef & Arpels, established his own firm M. Gérard in 1968, setting up his premises at 8 Avenue Montaigne in Paris. His discerning eye for gemstones and superior sense for quality quickly won over the hearts of Parisian and international jewellery enthusiasts. He soon became renowned for jewels set with very high quality diamonds, mostly exceptional stones (for example lots 243 and 259). However, he also insisted on a very high standard also for the small stones, the mêlée and for his extraordinary and fine workmanship. Many a suite in the sale bears witness to this. His success resulted in further openings of outlets in Monaco in the same year of the firm's foundation, Lausanne (in 1972), Gstaad (in 1974), London (in 1976), and in Geneva and Cannes (in 1978). Already by 1975, Gérard was known to be the largest exporter of fine jewels from France - an astonishing achievement when one bears in mind the reputation and quality of his long-established competitors from across the Place Vendôme and the Champs-Elysées. In 1985, the firm was bought by a group of American investors, but upon Louis Gérard's retirement the firm closed. Encouraged by friends and clients alike, Louis Gérard, one of the most successful jewelers of the second half of the 20th century, reopened under his own name two years later at 16 Avenue Montaigne and in Cannes. Coinciding with his reopening, he also launched a less exclusive line of more wearable jewellery suitable for a contemporary life style, which complemented his traditional production of haute joaillerie. The flexibility and suppleness of Gérard jewels make wearing them so pleasurable. Never compromising on quality, the jewellery by Gérard is characterized by distinctive, sometimes daring, often witty and always luxurious designs. Lot 291 combines his excellent workmanship with a truly exceptional gem: the third largest button-shaped pearl known to this day - a spectacular sight.

Details

MAGNIFICENT AND HIGHLY IMPORTANT NATURAL PEARL AND DIAMOND PARURE, BY GÉRARD INCLUDING AN EXCEPTIONAL BUTTON-SHAPED NATURAL PEARL AND A DIAMOND ETERNITY RING
The choker necklace comprising eight rows of 71, 64, 62, 52, 54, 51, 48 and 49 natural pearls measuring from 11.4 to 5.8 mm to the pear-shaped and brilliant-cut diamond floral cluster spacers, the bracelet of similar design comprising a central button-shaped natural pearl measuring 21.5 x 21.2 x 14.5 mm and weighing 202.26 grains (50.56) carats within a diamond cluster surround to the six-row natural pearl bracelet comprising 31, 29, 27, 27, 29 and 31 natural pearls measuring from 6.5 to 4.5 mm, the ear pendants each designed as a natural pearl measuring 13.3 or 13.1 mm within a diamond cluster surround suspending a tassel comprising a total of 92 natural pearls measuring from 6.1 to 3.3 mm, the ring designed as a button-shaped pearl measuring 15.4-15.7 x 13.0 mm within a diamond surround, necklace 36.0 cm (shortest row) and 53.0 cm (longest row) long, bracelet 18.0 cm long, ear pendants 8.5 cm long, ring size 6¾, with French assay mark for gold; the eternity ring designed as a band of marquise-cut diamonds, ring size 5½

The total number of natural pearls is 721
The suite signed M. Gérard for Gérard, nos. CS1041, CS1042, CS1044, CS1043
Accompanied by report nos. 0607020 to 0607023 dated 10 July 2006 from the Gübelin Gem Lab stating that the pearls are natural saltwater pearls (5)

Lot Essay

The remarkable button-shaped natural pearl that forms the focal point of this suite is the third largest button pearl known today, weighing 202.26 grains (50.56 carats). It is also the twentieth largest pearl of any shape so far recorded. For such a large pearl, it has an exceptionally fine pinkish white colour and beautiful lustre, or orient, uncommonly seen in such large examples. A very similar pearl of 208 grains (52.10 carats) once formed part of the Russian Crown Jewels (cf. A.E. Fersman's Russia's Treasure of Diamonds and Precious Stones, Part I, number 12). The largest button pearl on record is 221.9 grains (55.47 carats); however, it does not compare in terms of shape and beauty with the pearl being offered now.

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