.jpg?w=1)
Lot Essay
Cf. Herbert Tillander, Diamond Cuts in Historic Jewellery 1381-1910, Art Books International, 1995, pp. 93-97
In the early 15th century, diamonds, particularly those of larger size were very costly as the only source was central India. Diamond cutters introduced the rosette to create jewellery and ornaments that gave the illusion of size beyond their owner's monetary means.
The first rosettes were composed of four shield-shaped diamonds forming a clover leaf which gradually evolved to more complicated designs with up to ten single petals.
In about 1480 the development of the 'double' rosette began. This rosette consisted of two different diamond cuts; a fan and a lozenge/kite shape. The juxtaposition of the diamonds is fascinating and was technically very difficult to achieve due to the angles and wastage needed to successfully create a lively rosette. Examples with a variety of ten to eighteen diamond segments are known, as seen in the sixteenth century pendant, belonging to Duchess Anna, daughter of King Charles III of Denmark and Dorothea of Saxe-Lauenburg (1532-1585).
It was the usual practice for the rosettes to be closed back mounted and their overall brilliance was enhanced by small pieces of foil reflecting the facets of the diamonds. However over time moisture tended to enter through the tiny gaps between the petals which caused the foil to tarnish.
The present rosette, the diamonds of which probably date from the early 16th century, might well have survived because it was adapted to an open back setting in the early 19th century at the same time that the rose petals were added to create a brooch more in keeping with the period.
In the early 15th century, diamonds, particularly those of larger size were very costly as the only source was central India. Diamond cutters introduced the rosette to create jewellery and ornaments that gave the illusion of size beyond their owner's monetary means.
The first rosettes were composed of four shield-shaped diamonds forming a clover leaf which gradually evolved to more complicated designs with up to ten single petals.
In about 1480 the development of the 'double' rosette began. This rosette consisted of two different diamond cuts; a fan and a lozenge/kite shape. The juxtaposition of the diamonds is fascinating and was technically very difficult to achieve due to the angles and wastage needed to successfully create a lively rosette. Examples with a variety of ten to eighteen diamond segments are known, as seen in the sixteenth century pendant, belonging to Duchess Anna, daughter of King Charles III of Denmark and Dorothea of Saxe-Lauenburg (1532-1585).
It was the usual practice for the rosettes to be closed back mounted and their overall brilliance was enhanced by small pieces of foil reflecting the facets of the diamonds. However over time moisture tended to enter through the tiny gaps between the petals which caused the foil to tarnish.
The present rosette, the diamonds of which probably date from the early 16th century, might well have survived because it was adapted to an open back setting in the early 19th century at the same time that the rose petals were added to create a brooch more in keeping with the period.