ParcelWineNo VAT will be charged on the hammer pri… Read more MADEIRA Madeira is the name of both the volcanic Portuguese island off the coast of North Africa, and the fortified wine made there. The four classic types of Madeira are named after the grapes from which they are made: Sercial, Verdelho, Bual and Malvasia. All four of these types of Madeira are still in production today and typically have high natural acidity. Two other grape varieties, Terrantez and Bastardo are much rarer as they are very susceptible to disease and were almost wiped out by phylloxera and are only seen in voluminous and comprehensive Madeira collections like the one offered here today. The majority of Madeira, however, is made from a grape called tinta negra mole, or tinta. Technically, tinta is considered a "good variety" as opposed to a "noble" one and as such, none of the wines in this extraordinary collection contain that grape. Here, we are offering only the finest and noblest. To make Madeira, fermentation of the grapes is usually stopped by the addition of alcohol. In the middle of the 18th Century brandy was first used to fortify and also stablilise the wine for shipment to England and her colonies. The wine can then be additionally sweetened, then undergoes estufa. Estufa, one of the most unique wine making processes in the world, came about quite by accident. Madeira was ideally located as a stopping point for ships destined for the East and West Indies. Since the majority of the Madeira was made for export, the wine often spent long periods of time ageing in casks being used as ballast in the holds of shipping vessels. When it was discovered that the slow heating of the wine had a positive effect, the merchants preferred that the wine cross the tropics twice in order for it to reach full maturity. This process of heat and controlled oxidation lead to the invention of the estufa system, currently in use, as a way of replicating these ocean voyages. In the estufagem, the fortified wine is heated to (by law) between 40 and 50 degrees Centigrade for a legal minimum of three months. After the wine has been heated it is cooled (special care being taken to ensure that the wine does not over-oxidize) and then placed in "pipes" for the resting period known as estagio for a year or more, after which it is stored in casks of a solera (much like sherry) or observed for potential as vintage Madeira. Michael Broadbent writing in his book Vintage Wine stated that "Madeira has always been one of my favourite wines, and I am glad to say, vintage Madeira is making a comeback". Malvasia Malvasia (both Malvasia Cândida and Malvasia Babosa) is the most classic grape on the island of Madeira, having been cultivated since the 15th century. Known as "Malmsey" in England, Malvasia Cândida almost became extinct in the mid 20th Century. Malvasia is a fickle grape; it only survives at low altitudes and in sunny, sheltered locations to protect it from mildew and rot. Madeira made from Malvasia is sweet but balanced by very high levels of acidity. Boal Boal grows at low altitudes on the south end of the island of Madeira. Madeiras made from this grape are rich, raisiny and retain their acidity quite well. The grapes are low-yielding and compact bunches of small, sweet grapes. Verdelho Verdelho, a once ubiquitous grape on the island of Madeira, was all but wiped out by phylloxera. Elevated to noble status at the beginning of the 20th Century, Verdelho is grown mainly on the north end of the island, where it is planted close to the ground as opposed to on trellises. Verdelho usually produces a medium-dry wine which develops hints of smokiness as it ages. Sercial The same variety as the mainland's Esganocão, Sercial is known for its mouth-puckering acidity. It typically produces drier wines with almond overtones and stunning clarity. Terrantez Terrantez grapes were first recorded in Madeira in the early 18th-century. Another grape that nearly died out during the phylloxera epidemic, Terrantez grapes have fairly high sugar content. This sale offers the opportunity to purchase wines from a grape that is currently nearly extinct: the current Terrantez harvest does not produce enough juice to fill a single barrel. As the Portuguese saying goes, "As uvas de Terrantez, não as comas nem as dês, para vinho Deus as fez." The grapes of Terrantez are not for eating or giving away; God created them for wine. Bastardo Bastardo, known in France as Trousseau, it is also used in the Douro to make Port. Often used to make somewhat dry wines, it is no longer grown in any substantial quantity on Madeira. A BRIEF GUIDE TO THE VINTAGES OF MADEIRA Vintage notes taken from Madeira--The Island Vineyard by Noël Cossart, a Christie's Wine Publication, 1984 1774 Small, but generally very good 1775 Generally very good 1783 Small, Bual and Verdelho very good 1787 Small, generally good 1788 Generally very good 1789 Cama de Lobos very fine 1790 Cama de Lobos very fine 1792 Bual especially good 1795 Generally very good 1803 Generally very good 1805 Generally very good, especially Verdelho 1806 Cama de Lobos and São Martinho good 1808 Generally very good, Malmsey best ever known. Sercial fine 1812 Bual very fine 1814 Bual very fine 1815 Waterloo vintage. Bual good. 1816 Bual very fine 1817 Generally very good, especially Sercial 1822 Generally Excellent 1824 Generally very fine, especially Bual 1826 Generally very fine, especially Sercial 1827 Generally very fine, especially Sercial 1834 Generally very good, especially Bual 1836 Generally very good, especially Sercial 1837 Generally very good, especially Malmsey 1838 Generally very good, especially Verdelho 1839 Generally very good, especially Malmsey 1840 Generally very fine, especially Sercial and Verdelho 1842 Generally very fine, especially Sercial 1844 Generally very good, especially Bual 1845 Generally very fine, especially Bual 1846 Generally very fine, especially Terrantez, Bual and Verdelho 1848 Generally very good, especially Terrantez and Bual 1850 Generally very good, especially Verdelho 1851 Generally very fine, especially Sercial, Bual and Malmsey 1852 Oidium struck the vines 1854 Very small, but generally very good, especially Sercial 1858 Very small, but generally very good, especially Verdelho 1860 Very small, but generally very good, especially Sercial 1862 Small, Terrantez of this year is considered very fine, also Malmsey 1863 Small, generally very fine, especially Malmsey and Bual from Cama de Lobos 1864 Small, generally good, especially Bual and Malmsey 1866 Small, generally good, especially Tinta 1867 Small, generally good, especially Tinta 1868 Small, generally good, especially Bual--excellent 1869 Small, generally good, especially Bual 1870 Small, generally good, especially Sercial 1872 Phylloxera. The small amount of wine was very fine 1873 Very small vintage, but some fine wines from Quinta da Paz 1874 Very small vintage, but some fine wines from Quinta da Paz 1880 Malmsey of this year was extremely fine 1882 Very small, some fine Bual 1883 Very small, some fine Sercial 1884 Very small, some fine Sercial 1885 Very small, some fine Malmsey 1891 Generally good, especially Bual 1892 Generally good, especially Sercial 1893 Generally good, especially Malmsey 1895 Generally fine, especially Malmsey. The first normal vintage since 1873. 1898 Generally very fine, especially Verdelho and Sercial 1900 Generally very fine 1902 Generally very fine 1905 Very small, but good, especially Sercial and Verdelho 1906 Small, but good, especially Malmsey 1910 All wine excellent, especially Sercial, Bual and Verdelho 1914 Small vintage, but Bual especially fine 1915 Generally very good, Bual especially fine 1916 Generally very good, Malmsey especially fine 1918 Generally very good 1920 All wines very good, especially Malmsey, but Bual excellent 1926 Generally very good, Bual the finest this century 1934 All wines excellent, especially Verdelho, Bual and Malmsey 1936 Generally very fine, Sercial the finest this century 1940 Generally very fine, Sercial especially good Michael Broadbent's "Vintages at a Glance," from Vintage Wine Outstanding ***** 1793, 1795, 1798, 1802, 1822, 1830, 1836, 1846, 1862, 1868, 1900, 1901, 1910, 1936 Very Good **** 1789, 1792, 1821, 1826, 1827, 1834, 1837, 1839, 1850, 1860, 1863, 1870, 1875, 1893, 1895, 1898, 1899, 1908, 1911, 1914, 1920, 1926, 1934, 1939, 1940, 1941, 1954, 1957, 1966, 1968 Good *** 1811, 1815, 1832, 1845, 1864, 1877, 1879, 1891, 1892, 1903, 1905, 1907, 1912, 1913, 1915, 1916, 1927, 1933, 1935, 1945, 1952, 1958, 1960, 1964
Terrantez--1795 Vinho Madeira Especial, F. F Ferraz and Ca. Straw covered capsules. Bin-soiled and damaged labels. 'Ferraz' embossed on shoulder. Levels top-shoulder or better

2 bottles per lot
Details
A UNIQUE RANGE OF FINEST AND RAREST MADEIRA FROM THE FUNCHAL CELLAR OF WILLIAM LEACOCK
The history and development of Madeira wines over the last 500 years are inextricably linked with England. Numerous references to Madeira and Malmsey specifically are to be found in the manuscripts of William Shakespeare dating from the latter part of the 16th century and Customs House records indicate that export of wines from the island were already widespread into England, mainland Europe and even the New World by the 1550's and 1560's.
Viniculture was already a well established practice for maybe a century at this time, with the earliest records detailing wine production from before 1485.

When Charles II married the sister of King Alfonso VII of Portugal in 1662, the link to these islands was indeed strengthened and further export benefits granted to Madeira shippers over and above other European exporters, meant a virtual monopoly for trading with the Americas and the Caribbean.
By the mid 1700's, the first fledgling companies with UK connections were being founded by entrepreneurs newly arrived in Madeira - notably John Leacock who first came in 1741 and began trading under his own name in 1760 and Francis Newton from Scotland who, in 1745 started the firm that was to become Cossart Gordon & Co.

The Leacock family continued to run their business through successive generations, with John's two sons, John and William taking the reins in 1791. The next generation was headed by Thomas Slapp Leacock who took control in 1877, he the great-grandfather of William Leacock whose wines are offered below. Thomas's place in Madeiran history was further cemented when in 1873, he recognised the arrival of phylloxera in local vineyards and started a programme of vine treatment at the Leacock's St. John's property in Pico Sao Joao, that was to ensure the survival of the traditional grape varieties that we know today.

The selection of lots offered here, 1 to 182, represent the major part of the private collection of William Leacock, the last family head of Leacock and Co. before it was acquired by the Madeira Wine Company in 1981. All the bottles were recently inspected, packed and removed by Christie's Wine Department staff, from the underground cellars of Mr Leacock's impressive Funchal mansion and shipped to London by sea in the manner of so many previous exports over the last half-millennium. David Elswood

A range of ten of the oldest and most interesting wines from the Leacock cellars will be featured in a tutored Masterclass tasting led by Michael Broadbent M.W. to be held on December 4th at our King Street salerooms.

Lying in Weybridge, Surrey (EHD)
Terrantez--1795
Vinho Madeira Especial, F. F Ferraz and Ca. Straw covered capsules. Bin-soiled and damaged labels. 'Ferraz' embossed on shoulder. Levels top-shoulder or better
2 bottles per lot
Special notice
ParcelWineNo VAT will be charged on the hammer price, but VAT at 15% will be added to the buyer's premium which is invoiced on a VAT inclusive basis.

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