Patek & Czapek. An exceptionally rare 18K gold, diamond, emerald and ruby-set openface miniature cylinder watch
Patek & Czapek. An exceptionally rare 18K gold, diamond, emerald and ruby-set openface miniature cylinder watch
1 More
On lots marked with an + in the catalogue, VAT wil… Read more The following four lots, 173 to 176, represent an exceedingly rare selection of early timepieces made by Patek & Czapek, Geneva, and Czapek & Cie., Geneva, narrating the relationship between two of the world’s leading horologists. The historical and technical characteristics of the pieces render them worthy additions to even the most exalted collection.INTRODUCTION1Not much is known about Antoni Norbert Patek's ancestors. However, a Patek ancestor, from the Polish nobility was mentioned in 1790. In 1830 Patek joined the Polish rebellion against Russian domination. He was a brave and intelligent soldier and rose quickly within the ranks, eventually winning the highest military order “Virituti Militari”. When the war ended, Patek was forced to leave the country. General Bem, the commander-in-chief, sent the young man first to Bamberg, Germany and later to France2. In France, he became an officer of the "Holy Battalion", a regiment of Polish émigrés on French soil who set out to aid the Frankfurt insurrection. On 9-10 April 1833, Patek’s journey ended unexpectedly - upon crossing the Swiss border, the regiment learned that the uprising had collapsed, they consequently remained in Switzerland, where they were warmly welcomed. The regiment formed the "Association of Polish Émigrés in Switzerland", who mostly found work with Swiss farmers and a few dozen learned watchmaking3.Patek, however, did neither. His artistic aspirations led him to begin studying with Alexandre Calame, the famous Swiss landscape artist, best known for his Alpine scenes. By 1835, possibly concurrently with his study of art, Patek bought his first watch movements, had them cased, and sold the completed watches4 to Polish clients. There is only one such watch from that period known to survive5. Patek’s charm and good manners helped him gain the support of an influential Polish clientele. His buying and selling business6 was growing and he decided to form a watch company. Not being a watchmaker though, he needed a proficient partner in the field: this was Franciszek Czapek.PATEK ET CZAPEKOn May 1, 1839 in Geneva, Patek and Franciszek Czapek established a business under the name of “Patek & Czapek” with Mr. Moreau as a silent partner (see Czapek’s biography for details, lot 176 in this auction). Czapek, a professional watchmaker, was also a soldier in the Polish National Guard7. Moreau and Patek each invested 8,000 Swiss francs in the company, Moreau held no official responsibilities, while Patek was responsible for the accounting and management. Czapek, who contributed tools and most likely some early machinery, was responsible for the production. During the first 14 months Patek and Czapek ran the company alone. They purchased unfinished movements from various companies specialized in the manufacturing of raw movements (ebauches), they then sent them to a case maker, and finished them in their shop. Up until July of 1840 Czapek finished all movements by himself. The company then hired one or two watchmakers to speed up the finishing process and to help cope with the delays, a problem they apparently faced in 1840. As Patek put it: “ …. I insisted that until July 1 [1940] all watches to be finished by Czapek himself, it lowered the expenses. The business improving, two months ago (July, 1840), I increased the number of craftsmen...”8 The Polish ConnectionAs Patek himself stated9, the majority of their clientele was Polish. In the early years, the support of the Polish community was vital for the company’s survival. As émigrés, without that support and without financial backing, they would not have been able to overcome the fierce local competition. Patek's growing ties with Poland and the Polish clientele became the basis of his business. In a letter to Princess Czartoryska, he wrote, "... recommend us, we can satisfy those coming to our national Polish manufactory, which one day we will move to our Motherland"10. Perhaps if Poland had gained independence sooner, we would be collecting watches signed "Patek Philippe, Warsaw", today ... The company’s profits were very much dependent on Polish connections. In 1844 Patek wrote: "Our manufactory goes less well than in former years, because only very few of our people [Poles] are coming here"11. Although Patek was a shrewd businessman with a strong sense for marketing, the business was not going so well financially. Recognizing that quick action needed to be taken, in 1844, Patek and Czapek participating in the Paris Products of Industry Exhibition met Adrien Philippe, who received a gold medal for his keyless winding watches12. Patek, producer of 42 keyless watches13 made from rather complicated Audemars ebauches, was immediately interested by Philippe's new invention. What’s more, he had the foresight to recognize this as his passport to a worldwide clientele. Patek and Czapek parted their ways, Philippe joined Patek and the rest is history.1 The majority of the information below comes from Philip Poniz, Patek Philippe: The Forgotten Beginnings, VOX, Geneva, Spring 2003.2 Lubomir Gordon, Emigracja Polska (Kraków, 1901), p. 31.3 Jerzy Zdrada, Wielka Emigracja po Powstaniu Listopadowym [The Great Emigration after the November Resurrection], Warsaw, 1987, v. III, p. 46. 4 Huber & Banbery, Patek Philippe, p. 13 and pp. 34-38.5 In a private American collection.6 Letter from Patek to Walery Wielogłowski, September 22, 1840.7 Patek to Princess Czartoryska, September 25, 1843.8 Letter from Patek to Walery Wielogłowski, 22 Sept, 1840.9 Letter from Patek to Princess Czartoryska, September 25, 1843.10 Letter from Patek to Jan Koźmian, May 23, 1845.11 Letter from Patek to Wielogłowski, February 20, 1841.12 Huber & Banbery, Patek Philippe, p. 49.13 Ibid, p. 68.PATEK & CZAPEK A GENEVE NO. 489The smallest known Patek from the earliest period of the firm’s history
Patek & Czapek. An exceptionally rare 18K gold, diamond, emerald and ruby-set openface miniature cylinder watch

Signed Patek & Czapek à Genève, No. 489, manufactured in 1841

Details
Patek & Czapek. An exceptionally rare 18K gold, diamond, emerald and ruby-set openface miniature cylinder watch
Signed Patek & Czapek à Genève, No. 489, manufactured in 1841
Movement: 10’’’ (22.56 mm), cylinder escapement, 10 jewels, keywound, signed underneath the dial P, C and numbered 489.
Dial: silver, with fired black champlevé enamel Roman numerals, center engraved with winged
cherub’s head surmounted by seven stars within foliage and scrolls, signed underneath “Czapek”
Case: four-part, joined by three hinges, coin-edge center part, gold cuvette with engraved name and description of the movement, spring-loaded back cover released by pressing the
pushbutton in the pendant, 25.6 mm. diam., cuvette signed and numbered
With: Patek Philippe Extract from the Archives confirming production of the present watch with engraved dial, chased floral motif ornament with diamonds and emeralds on the case back in 1841 and its subsequent sale on 5 November 1842.
Special notice
On lots marked with an + in the catalogue, VAT will be charged at 7.7% on both the premium as well as the hammer price.

Lot Essay

The most surprising feature of the present watch is its size, 25.6 mm, slightly more than the American nickel illustrated next to it. To the best of our knowledge there is no other known Patek & Czapek as small.

At the time it took Antoine Norbert de Patek five years to make a similar one. He made it when he was already with a new partner, Adrien Philippe (now in the Patek Philippe Museum). The present watch was so remarkable that Czapek, who finished it himself, scratched his name on the reverse of the dial, making sure that the posterity will know who was responsible for such a marvel (fig. 1). The front is engraved with a winged cherub’s head surmounted by seven stars within foliage and scrolls. The mystery of the seven stars is explained by Jesus Christ himself in Revelation 1:20 relayed by Saint John, “The mystery of the seven stars… The seven stars are the angels of the seven churches…”. The seven brightest stars have been associated with angels who guard the most important seven early Christian churches (fig. 2). The winged cherub on the dial (fig. 3) represents them and guards the owner of the watch.

The high relief of the case decoration found in this watch is equally rare for Patek watches. Very few of them are known and the present is believed to be the earliest one. The next known Patek Philippe watch with high-relief decoration, no. 3925, was made nine years later, in 1850, when the company had already changed its name to Patek, Philippe & Co. (now in the Patek Philippe Museum).

The present back cover is decorated in high relief with allegorical flower stem that begins with acanthus and ends with Lilies of the valley. The Lilies of the valley (the tears of Virgin Mary pouring out while she was witnessing the crucifixion) - symbolize humility – a self-restrain, distancing oneself from vanity1. The acanthus has been an allegory of immortality and a long life. The longevity’s allegorical element is enforced by a surprising part of the watch – the setting of the gemstones on the case back - which are finished as snake heads (fig. 5 & 6), another symbol of immortality, rebirth and healing.

The case is in an excellent condition, the lift spring works well, the covers are tight, and the definition of the coin edge and decoration is high.

The 10 lignes movement with a diameter of 22.56 mm. is stamped with the serial number 489 and Patek & Czapek’s trade mark “P, C” (fig. 4). It is in excellent condition and keeps reasonable time.

To truly appreciate the small size of the watch one needs to understand the degree of difficulty with making a small watch versus a larger one.

In the early 1830s, when Breguet began making small, time-only watches, the company priced them between 3000 and 4000 francs. For that money one could have bought a large, heavy gold watch combining repetition, alarm and calendar, as for instance, No. 3524 of 23 lignes sold in March 1833 for 3000 francs2.

Only the wealthiest could have afforded these small watches. The list of buyers of those miniature marvels from Breguet matches the “Who is Who” of the European 19th century including Queen Victoria, Infante d'Espagne, Comte Fersen, Comte Potocki, Baron Schickler, Count Demidoff, etc.

COMPARABLE OBJECTS
A comparative analysis of similar watches cannot be done because no other watch like this one is known. The closest watches that appeared on the market are the small Breguet timepieces mentioned above. For instance, Breguet No. 7, a small watch in a gold case from 1835, was auctioned in Geneva in 1991 for 180,000CHF3.

Another small Breguet, No. 5012, from 1833, was sold by Christie’s, New York on 26 October 1987, lot 432, for US$44,000. That was at the time when a Patek Philippe minute repeating split seconds chronograph sold for US$7,700. The same watch today costs around US$30,000. Extrapolating, the watch today would be worth around US$170,000. There are at least six of these small Breguet pieces known, but there is only one watch as small from the earliest period of Patek Philippe’s history, it is the present example.

CONCLUSION
Patek Philippe & Co., one of the two most important watch companies in existence, considers itself a natural continuation of Patek & Czapek’s company4. Its early watches are extremely rare, only 48 are known to have survive, including the present5. It is unique for the high relief decoration, unknown in any other, it is unique for its allegorical significance, also not known in early Patek watches, the excellent condition and especially for the unique small size, the smallest known Patek from the earliest period of the firm’s history.

1 Iconologia by Cezare Ripa, Rome, 1603
2 Watch The Difference by Philip Poniz, VOX, Geneva, Summer 2003, pp. 66-67.
3 Antiquorum, April 14, 1991, lot 95.
4 So did Czapek & Cie, who started his new numbering system from what he left at Patek & Czapek.
5 The last serial number of Patek & Czapek known is 1161 (Patek Philippe Museum, Inv. P-607). However, Antoine Patek himself, in 1849, stated that the company has produced only 789 pieces (manuscript from upcoming Patek Philippe, The Forgotten Beginnings, Part II, by Philip Poniz).


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