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Lot Essay
This elegant robe is finely woven with The Twelve Symbols of Imperial Authority, which were prescribed by official dress edicts and first appeared on the Manchu emperor’s clothing in 1759. These symbols were superimposed on the general decorative scheme of Qing court garments, and could only be worn by the emperor, empress, empress dowager, and crown prince. Yellow robes, like the present robe, could only be worn by the emperor and empress. These symbols are arranged in three groups of four: the sun, the moon, constellation, mountain, fu symbol, axe, paired dragons, golden pheasant, pair of libation cups, aquatic grass, grains of millet and flames. The presence of these symbols, combined with the Guangxu-period dating, indicate that this robe was likely made for the Dowager Empress Cixi or her niece, Empress Longyu.
Kesi robes are of the most desirable and difficult to preserve, due to the delicate nature of the technique and painterly outcome of the design. They come in varying quality, particularly in the nineteenth century, but the delicate outlining and fine shading, rather than painting, of the Twelve Symbols on the present robe indicate that it is of the highest quality. This robe would likely have taken at least two years to complete.
The sable fur trim on this robe indicates that it was made for wear during autumn or spring, when members of the imperial family often wore robes lined with fur.
Interestingly, in addition to its imperial history, this robe was also worn in the 1963 film ’55 Days in Peking,’ by the late Dame Flora Robson, who played the Dowager Empress.
Kesi robes are of the most desirable and difficult to preserve, due to the delicate nature of the technique and painterly outcome of the design. They come in varying quality, particularly in the nineteenth century, but the delicate outlining and fine shading, rather than painting, of the Twelve Symbols on the present robe indicate that it is of the highest quality. This robe would likely have taken at least two years to complete.
The sable fur trim on this robe indicates that it was made for wear during autumn or spring, when members of the imperial family often wore robes lined with fur.
Interestingly, in addition to its imperial history, this robe was also worn in the 1963 film ’55 Days in Peking,’ by the late Dame Flora Robson, who played the Dowager Empress.