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Lot Essay
While the Twelve Symbols of Imperial Authority emerged as early as the Zhou dynasty (c. 1050-256 BC), they first appeared on the clothing of Qing emperors after 1759 and became restricted for exclusive use by the emperor in 1766, as recorded in the Huangchao liqi tushi (Illustrated Precedents for the Ritual Paraphernalia of the Imperial Court). The Twelve Symbols are arranged in three groups of four. The sun (represented by a three-legged cockerel), moon (represented by a hare pounding the elixir of life), constellation, and mountain are placed around the shoulders, chest, and mid-back, and symbolized the four main ritual ceremonies over which the emperor presided annually at the Temples of Heaven, Earth, Sun, and Moon. The symbol of distinction (fu), axe, paired dragons, and golden pheasant appear at waist-level, and represented all things on earth and the ruler’s ability to make decisions. Finally, the pair of libation cups, aquatic grass, grains of millet and flames, placed at knee-level, indicated four of the Five Elements and ancestor worship.
The present robe is decorated with nine five-clawed dragons pursuing flaming pearls amidst blue ruyi-shaped clouds interspersed with bats suspending ribbon-tied peaches, shou (long life) roundels, and auspicious emblems, all on a vibrant apricot-colored ground. The five-clawed dragon was the ultimate emblem of imperial power and strongly associated with the Mandate of Heaven. The apricot-orange tone, known as xinghuang, was one of the 'Five Imperial Yellows' used at the Qing Court, and could only be worn by Princes and Princesses of the First Rank and Imperial Consorts of the Second and Third Degree. The vivid purple aniline dye highlighted in the lishui at the hem indicate that this robe was likely made during the latter part of the 19th century when this dye had been introduced, and was possibly made for the Guangxu Emperor (r. 1875-1908). This aniline purple was one of the first synthetic dyes created and was the Dowager Empress Cixi's favorite color, as she was impressed by the modern scientific technology which produced it. Consequently, it featured prominently in her court dress.
The Dowager Empress Cixi broke with established sumptuary conventions when she appointed her nephew Zaitian to rule as Emperor Guangxu. As Zaitian was of the same generation as the previous emperor, Tongzhi (r. 1862-1874), he could not properly perform the rites of ancestor worship in memory of his predecessor and was therefore accompanied by court elders during ritual ceremonies.
Unusual decorative features of the present robe include the water dragons leaping amidst the waves in the lishui as well as the woven ‘dragon’ roundels in the dark-blue sleeve extensions. Compare a similar kesi apricot-ground robe, dated to the Guangxu period, but lacking the aforementioned unusual features of the current robe, in the Mactaggart Art Collection at the University of Alberta Museum (acc. no. 2005.5.13), and illustrated by J. Vollmer and J. Simcox, Emblems of the Empire, Alberta, 2009, pp. 30-31.
The present robe is decorated with nine five-clawed dragons pursuing flaming pearls amidst blue ruyi-shaped clouds interspersed with bats suspending ribbon-tied peaches, shou (long life) roundels, and auspicious emblems, all on a vibrant apricot-colored ground. The five-clawed dragon was the ultimate emblem of imperial power and strongly associated with the Mandate of Heaven. The apricot-orange tone, known as xinghuang, was one of the 'Five Imperial Yellows' used at the Qing Court, and could only be worn by Princes and Princesses of the First Rank and Imperial Consorts of the Second and Third Degree. The vivid purple aniline dye highlighted in the lishui at the hem indicate that this robe was likely made during the latter part of the 19th century when this dye had been introduced, and was possibly made for the Guangxu Emperor (r. 1875-1908). This aniline purple was one of the first synthetic dyes created and was the Dowager Empress Cixi's favorite color, as she was impressed by the modern scientific technology which produced it. Consequently, it featured prominently in her court dress.
The Dowager Empress Cixi broke with established sumptuary conventions when she appointed her nephew Zaitian to rule as Emperor Guangxu. As Zaitian was of the same generation as the previous emperor, Tongzhi (r. 1862-1874), he could not properly perform the rites of ancestor worship in memory of his predecessor and was therefore accompanied by court elders during ritual ceremonies.
Unusual decorative features of the present robe include the water dragons leaping amidst the waves in the lishui as well as the woven ‘dragon’ roundels in the dark-blue sleeve extensions. Compare a similar kesi apricot-ground robe, dated to the Guangxu period, but lacking the aforementioned unusual features of the current robe, in the Mactaggart Art Collection at the University of Alberta Museum (acc. no. 2005.5.13), and illustrated by J. Vollmer and J. Simcox, Emblems of the Empire, Alberta, 2009, pp. 30-31.