Packed with style: a history of Gucci Valigeria in 10 objects

Synonymous with exquisite craftsmanship, innovative design and distinctive motifs, Gucci’s bags, trunks and suitcases are deeply intertwined with the story of luxury travel in the 20th century.

The story begins in 1897, when Guccio Gucci moved from Florence to London aged 16 to work as a porter and lift attendant at The Savoy hotel. Fascinated by the jet-set guests — and in particular their stylish luggage — he became swept up in the magic of luxury travel.

He returned to Florence in 1902 and later, in 1921, opened his own artisanal luggage atelier, pairing Tuscan leatherwork traditions with the trends he had encountered in London.

By the 1950s, Gucci had boutiques across Italy and the US, and the brand counted Hollywood celebrities among its many famous clients.

Over the next few decades, the brand continued to push boundaries, launching its now instantly recognisable GG monogram motif in the 1960s and its debut fragrance in 1975.

In 2021, when Gucci celebrated its centenary, it opened Vault, an online concept store featuring one-of-a-kind vintage pieces, collaborative collections, designs from emerging labels and collector’s items that have been reconditioned and reimagined by Gucci ArtLab artisans in collaboration with the company’s archivists.

On the occasion of Gucci Vault’s latest drop (20 July 2023) celebrating the joy of travel, Christie’s specialist Rachel Koffsky explores the company’s world-spanning heritage through 10 accessories for the most glamorous of globetrotters.

Gucci’s first pieces of luggage were intricately designed, pairing exquisite craftsmanship with high-quality materials. One fine example is this leather suitcase from the 1930s, inspired by the travel wardrobe trunk. Thanks to its smaller, more practical size, it became one of Gucci’s most popular models and contributed to the growing international reputation of the house.

The natural and durable leather shell contrasts with the elegant powder-pink silk moiré lining featuring a ‘Liftboy’ insignia, one of the first Gucci signature motifs. The logo depicts a lift attendant holding luggage, dressed in double-breasted livery — a proud reference to Guccio Gucci’s time at The Savoy. Under the Liftboy emblem is the word ‘Gucci’, and the locations of the brand’s first two shops: Florence (opened in 1921) and Rome (1938).

By the 1950s, Gucci had established a reputation for daring designs using quality materials, especially leather. A Gucci hatbox, for instance, would have been seen as the epitome of style and elegance.

This mid-century example is made of pigskin, a signature material in the post-war period, and features Gucci’s now famous green-red-green Web stripe detail. The motif, first seen in the early 1950s, was inspired by the girth strap, the band that holds the saddle in place on a horse’s back. The brindle effect on the exterior is obtained using a tanning technique that creates an irregular spot-like shading throughout.

The 1950s also saw the introduction of the Gucci ‘Rinascimento’ or ‘Renaissance’ pattern, recalling 16th-century frescoes and decorated velvets that took their own visual cues from ancient Roman paintings.

Now available on Gucci Vault is this 1950s suitcase which has been refashioned by Gucci artisans into a beautiful picnic set, with patterned cups, plates, and a teapot from the Gucci Décor collection. Featuring sinuous floral motifs in red, green and ochre, the Rinascimento repeating design on this one-of-a-kind collector’s item was first printed on hemp fabric, and then hand-painted.

‘This suitcase shows how the house’s codes have stood the test of time,’ says Koffsky. ‘It is a wonderful expression of Gucci’s past, present and future ingenuity.’

In the 1960s, the most desirable luxury suitcases were crafted from crocodile skin and made by Gucci. In the Florence workshop, each Gucci bag would be hand-assembled by one craftsman. When completed, an identification number was stamped inside the bag, so that the same artisan would be able to rectify any defects.

This glossy burgundy crocodile suitcase showcases the skills of the artisans and the precious materials used by Gucci at the time. The rounded look of the scales is produced using a highly specialised technique known as the ‘Bombe effect’, which has been passed down through generations of artisans and to this day is safeguarded by the house.

The suitcase also features a gold closure typical of Gucci pieces from the period. ‘Gold is a hallmark of the Gucci universe,’ says Koffsky. ‘The gold details on this piece add to its overall desirability.’

In 1968, Gucci opened a boutique in Beverly Hills. Before long, it was the luggage brand of choice for Hollywood stars — among them Audrey Hepburn, whose personal collection of clothes, accessories and memorabilia was offered for sale by Christie’s in 2017 and 2018.

Among the lots offered was this Gucci travelling jewellery case from the 1970s. Held by Hepburn’s family and offered fresh to market in Audrey Hepburn: The Personal Collection, Part III, it cruised past its low estimate before selling for £6,000.

By the 1970s, Gucci had embraced its distinctive GG monogram, as seen on this semi-rigid suitcase with patent 53055 B/72. The monogram was an update of Gucci’s earlier Diamante design, a repeated geometric diamond pattern in dark brown on tan canvas.

The Diamante motif was first used on luggage in the 1930s, when a leather shortage in Italy forced the enterprising Guccio Gucci to innovate with materials such as woven hemp. In the late 1960s, in homage to their father, Gucci’s sons incorporated the double reverse GG initials into the design, creating the canvas diamond pattern that is now synonymous with the brand.

Created between 1989 and 1991, this bespoke trunk recalls the days of voyages by steamship, when wardrobe trunks served as travelling closets. Made from two hand-crafted wooden shells covered in suede and calfskin, it features a hanging rail, a shoe rack and five drawers.

‘No detail is spared on custom Gucci items,’ says Koffsky. ‘The golden studs and hinges on this trunk, for example, elevate it from the purely functional to a beautiful object in its own right.’

In 1994, Tom Ford would be appointed creative director of Gucci, ushering in a new era of updated retro looks and an expanded product range. The brand’s heritage-infused luggage from the period consolidated the timeless appeal of Gucci’s travel accessories.

Gucci classics from the early 2000s are highly sought-after by collectors on the secondary market. Equally coveted are travel accessories from the period with celebrity provenance, as illustrated by this this Gucci garment bag, offered from the collection of Vogue  editor André Leon Talley at Christie’s in New York in February 2023.

Decorated with the distinctive interlocking GG monogram in classic beige and ebony, it features silver hardware and a glossy brown leather handle and luggage tag. It soared above its pre-sale estimate before selling for $2,268.

Also offered from the collection of André Leon Talley was this 2004 briefcase with bamboo handle, bamboo turnlock closure and gold hardware, which fetched $4,788, nearly six times the high estimate.

Gucci handbags with bamboo handles have long been coveted by collectors. ‘The burnished bamboo handle was introduced as a result of leather shortages in the post-war period,’ explains Koffsky, adding that bags featuring bamboo became the must-have accessories of the 1950s and 1960s. ‘It represents Guccio Gucci’s ingenuity, and has been reimagined many times since its inception.’

Large Gucci trunks made from crocodile skin represent the pinnacle of the brand’s luxury luggage offering. This emerald-green example with gold hardware was created to the specifications of a top-tier client, making it exceptionally precious.

‘The interplay between the Bombe-effect emerald-green crocodile exterior with shiny gold hardware and the interior, featuring emerald-green drawers and a gold-tone leather wardrobe divider, adds to its overall sophistication,’ says Koffsky. ‘The studs, meanwhile, reinforce the glamour of the trunk, which resembles a brilliant, oversized piece of jewellery.’