Collecting guide: natural and cultured pearls

The price of pearls

Coveted by both Eastern and Western collectors for centuries, pearls have been a mark of extravagance for monarchs and society figures throughout history. Famous wearers of pearl jewellery include royals from King Henry VIII to Princess Diana, and style icons such as Coco Chanel, who wore cultured pearls, and Elizabeth Taylor — whose 16th-century natural pearl La Peregrina set two world auction records when it sold for $11,842,500 at Christie’s in 2011.

Pearls are even cited for their beauty and value in scripture: in the Bible, Jesus compares the Kingdom of Heaven to a ‘pearl of great price’, while the Qu’ran says that dwellers in paradise will be adorned with pearls. According to Marco Polo, a necklace of 104 rubies and pearls was worn by the Hindu kings of Malabar and passed from one generation to the next.

Yet, despite their distinguished history and elevated status, pearls don’t have to cost a king’s ransom: it is possible to find beautiful natural and cultured pearls at prices below $10,000.

For weddings or weekdays

Pearl jewellery is eminently wearable: the same piece can be dressed up for a formal occasion, or worn effortlessly to the office.

Pearls come in such a range of colours and shapes that they sit beautifully in a vast range of different settings and types of jewellery — and they hold the unique distinction of being naturally beautiful, without the use of cutting, faceting or treatment.

Both natural and cultured pearls feature prominently in pieces by the world’s most renowned jewellers, including Tiffany & Co., Van Cleef & Arpels, Buccellati and Mikimoto — all of which feature in Christie’s auctions. And the variety of designs means there’s a piece to fit everyone’s personal style.

Black, green or pink pearls? Consider colour

A pearl’s colour is essentially determined by the type of oyster in which it is produced. Cultured Tahitian pearls, for example, are formed from the Pinctada margaritifera, a black-lipped oyster that gives them the dark charcoal colours that many collectors have grown to know and love.

Other types of oyster produce pearls of different shades. Both the white version and the warmer golden South Sea pearl are created in the Pinctada maxima, which is the largest type of oyster capable of producing cultured pearls. Akoya pearls are formed by the Pinctada fucata, a smaller type of oyster that most often produces white pearls with wonderful rose and green overtones.

But steer clear of artificial shades

Collectors are advised to avoid artificially coloured pearls, and instead enjoy the wide range of naturally occurring colours that are found in jewellery from top makers included in Christie’s Jewellery auctions.

Wear, and store, with care

Experts advise that daily wear should be approached with caution. Some skin types are high in acidity, which can degrade pearls over time. The same is true of certain cosmetic products, such as hairspray, so care should be taken.

However, treated correctly, pearl jewels can last a lifetime, making them both timeless additions to any wardrobe and perfect heirlooms for future generations. To ensure their longevity, proper storage is of paramount importance.

The most vital piece of advice for collectors is never to store your pearls in cotton wool. Pearls contain moisture, and if they are stored in cotton, it draws the moisture out and they can crack. Pearl dealers often cover their wares in a silk cloth — follow suit, and wrap your pearls in a silk handkerchief.

Featuring a curated selection of historical and modern jewellery from houses such as as Harry Winston, Cartier and Van Cleef & Arpels, Christie’s Magnificent Jewels auction will take place at the Four Seasons Hotel des Bergues in Geneva on 12 November 2024, with pre-sale viewing 8-12 November