Donna Summer, style icon: the Queen of Disco’s luxurious looks were the essence of glamour

When asked why she chose to title her 2003 memoir Ordinary Girl, Donna Summer said, ‘Because I’m just an ordinary person who did some extraordinary things.’ Her signature style, however, was anything but mundane. The Grammy-winning singer’s looks — featuring luxurious materials, dazzling sequins, daring cut-outs and theatrical accessories — made her a fashion icon. 

Just as her ground-breaking tracks like I Feel Love transformed the sound of the dancefloor, her style broke boundaries and came to define the disco era and beyond. Her artistry and unparalleled eye for elegance can be seen in every element of her creative output, from her glamorous ensembles to her intimate handwritten lyrics.

These items and more will go on view 24-27 June at Christie’s in New York, as part of The Collection of Donna Summer. The online auction, open for bidding 15-29 June, highlights essential memorabilia from the Queen of Disco, including iconic outfits and accessories, personal photographs, and works of art by the singer who was also an avid painter. 

A portion of the proceeds will be donated to St. Jude Children's Hospital, the Save the Music Foundation, and the Elton John AIDS Foundation — charitable organizations that were dear to Donna Summer during her lifetime and continue to hold significance for her family today.

Through her pioneering concept albums, Summer created immersive narrative worlds, and evocative costume and dress were crucial to the visual identity of her music. Fabulous clothes enabled the artist to shift between stories and play different roles, from the alluring diva with beehive hair and a backless white leotard on the cover of Four Seasons of Love to the uniformed diner waitress on the cover of She Works Hard for the Money.

Amanda Sudano Ramirez, Summer’s daughter, recalls her mother’s quick-change booth backstage, where the artist would transform herself over the course of a concert. Sudano also remembers the silver goblet from which Summer would sip diet Pepsi between songs — with the bubbles removed, of course. ‘The chalice, as we called it, is so ingrained in our minds and memories.’ 

In addition to live performances, costume and storytelling were at the heart of Summer’s legendary music videos. The video for 1983’s Unconditional Love takes place at a school with Summer playing a teacher. After class, Summer removes a heavy coat to reveal a rhinestone-appliquéd multicolour dress and goes outside to sing and dance with the schoolchildren. The sparkling cocktail dress of beaded pongee silk and tulle is offered as part of the collection this June.

A master of the halter neckline that came to define the 70s, Summer was known for her adventurous and forward-thinking taste, including asymmetrical silhouettes, bold prints and intricate embellishments. 

With a background in theatre — she got her start in a German production of Hair — Summer knew how to accessorise for maximum drama. From winged sleeves and fringe capes to hair flowers and chandelier earrings, Summer incorporated regal elements befitting the Queen of Disco. Plaid, tulle, rhinestones, black velvet and red satin combinations came together naturally in Summer’s extravagant, layered looks, which were always fun, never fussy.

Candid Polaroids offered in the upcoming sale provide intimate behind-the-scenes glimpses into Summer’s infectious enthusiasm and charisma on tour and on shoots. Summer played an active role in crafting her own looks, and her personal sketches for performance outfits are also featured in the June auction. These items provide an inside look at Summer’s creative process, in which each detail was treated with care. 

‘She was always drawing,’ says Sudano. ‘There were little pieces of paper all over the house with ideas and phone numbers and recipes. Her handwriting is sketched in my mind and heart.’

Much like She Works Hard for the Money became an anthem of female empowerment, Summer’s fashion choices encouraged women to take style risks and experiment with bold choices and attention-grabbing silhouettes. Statement belts, thigh-high boots and metallic fabrics like gold lamé were staples of the star’s exuberant wardrobe. 

Ultimately, the Queen of Disco’s distinctive style exudes the themes of joy and love that ran throughout her music. Her profound influence on fashion has been written about in Glamour, Vogue France, and i-D Magazine, among others. From glittering gowns and power suits to iconic photographs and drawings, the story-driven ensembles that helped make Donna Summer an icon sparkle across the upcoming collection, offering the chance to acquire a piece of music history.