Revealed: a monumental silk Safavid carpet that lay ‘undocumented, unillustrated and essentially unknown’ for centuries

In 2007, this monumental silk Safavid ‘Polonaise’ carpet surfaced at auction in Osaka in Japan. ‘It’s extraordinary that until then this carpet was undocumented, unillustrated and essentially unknown to academics in this field,’ says Louise Broadhurst, international head of Rugs and Carpets. ‘It’s an extremely exciting new discovery that’s in wonderful condition.’ The carpet will be offered for sale in Art of the Islamic and Indian Worlds including Rugs and Carpets on 24 October 2024 at Christie’s in London.

The carpet was woven during the reign of Shah Abbas the Great (1587-1629), fifth Shah of Iran and ruler of the Safavid Empire. ‘Abbas was one of the greatest rulers in Persian history and an enlightened patron of the arts,’ says Broadhurst, who adds that he established painting, ceramic and carpet-weaving workshops in his new capital of Isfahan. ‘He created a quarter within Isfahan called New Julfa, where Armenian weavers, known for their silk-weaving prowess, were able to work in the royal ateliers.’

Silk carpets were reserved almost exclusively for his own palaces, or made as gifts for visiting noblemen or ambassadors. The so-called ‘Polonaise’ group, produced during the late 16th and throughout the 17th century, were woven in brightly coloured silks, mostly on a cotton warp and silk weft. They became known for their elegant patterns, balanced compositions and extensive use of gold and silver metal thread, which gave them a dazzling appearance.

The unique design of this example, which comprises radiating leafy vines enclosing cartouche medallions, is woven entirely in silk on a monochrome red field. Unusually for a ‘Polonaise’, however, it features no metal thread. ‘This may suggest that it is a prototype — a stepping stone between earlier Safavid carpets and later “Polonaise” examples with metal thread and a variety of colours in the ground,’ says Broadhurst.

During the 17th century, ‘Polonaise’ carpets were highly prized by the aristocracy across Europe — which is why many of the surviving examples are found in eminent Western private collections or world-class museums. This carpet, however, made its way to Japan.

The likelihood is that it arrived there during the Edo period (1603-1868), when Japan was under the rule of the Tokugawa shogunate. ‘The Edo period is known for having closed down Japan’s links with the West,’ explains Broadhurst. ‘The only trading company that was allowed to continue operating there was the Dutch East India Company.’

The highly successful Vereenigde Oostindische Compagnie, more commonly known as the Dutch East India Company, had been trading with Japan since 1602. It established a base at Hirado in 1609, before moving to Nagasaki in 1641 after the expulsion of the Portuguese. The Dutch were the only Europeans allowed to remain in Japan, thanks to their loyal attitude towards the country’s central government and their flexibility in religious matters.

Records from the mid-16th century onwards show that Oriental textiles, including rugs and carpets with gold and silver threads, arrived in Japan as gifts for the shogunate and high officials. ‘They were particularly popular with the military commanders,’ says Broadhurst. She cites by way of example the battle surcoat (jin-baori) of the great shogun Toyotomi Hideyoshi, housed in the Kodai-ji temple in Kyoto and classified as Important Cultural Property. ‘The tabard incorporates a fragmentary 16th-century Safavid kilim,’ says the specialist.

The carpet coming to auction was probably acquired or commissioned by a wealthy Japanese family and housed in a private residence, hidden from sunlight, and only used on ceremonial occasions.

‘What is astonishing about this carpet is its condition: it is unrestored, and the colours are as fresh as when they were first woven,’ says Broadhurst, emphasising the remarkable preservation of the red ground. In the vast majority of surviving ‘Polonaise’ carpets, red grounds, which were coloured with a fugitive dye taken from the safflower, have faded to a pale yellow. ‘But the intense field colour in this carpet hasn’t faded at all.’

The unusually large size of the carpet (545 x 224 cm) makes it rarer still. Of the 300 ‘Polonaise’ carpets known to exist, most are much smaller (typically around 220 x 130 cm). This example belongs to a group of large-format carpets, of which there are only 30 or so known examples. At almost 18 feet, this carpet is the second longest on record. ‘It’s an extremely arresting carpet,’ says Broadhurst. ‘It would have dominated any room it was placed in.’

According to Broadhurst, the term ‘Polonaise’ was coined in 1878 at the Paris Exposition Universelle, where a number of examples of this type of carpet belonging to a Polish prince, Ladislaus Czartoryski, were on public display for the first time. Many were embroidered with the prince’s coat of arms, leading visitors to the mistaken conclusion that the carpets had actually been made in Poland. The misattribution stuck, hence the name ‘Polonaise’ (the French word for ‘Polish’).

‘It is a privilege to offer this extraordinary survivor on the international auction market for the first time,’ says the specialist. ‘Not only is it of exceptional quality, but it is also a beautiful illustration of the technical mastery of weavers during the golden age of Safavid art. It is a rare opportunity for a masterpiece collector to acquire a museum-quality piece.’

Explore the Art of the Islamic and Indian Worlds including Rugs and Carpets sale at Christie’s in London, on view 19-23 October 2024, prior to the auction on 24 October