Patek Philippe. A fine and extremely rare stainless steel automatic wristwatch with date, bracelet and Nautilus cork box
PATEK PHILIPPENautilus Ref. 3700/1 in Steel with Original Cork Box"One of the world's most expensive watches is made of steel" – Patek Philippe's slogan when introducing the Nautilus in 1976The Property of A Swiss Private Collector
Patek Philippe. A fine and extremely rare stainless steel automatic wristwatch with date, bracelet and Nautilus cork box

Signed Patek Philippe, Genève, Nautilus model, ref. 3700/1, movement no. 1’306’046, case no. 536’912, manufactured in 1977

細節
Patek Philippe. A fine and extremely rare stainless steel automatic wristwatch with date, bracelet and Nautilus cork box
Signed Patek Philippe, Genève, Nautilus model, ref. 3700/1, movement no. 1’306’046, case no. 536’912, manufactured in 1977
Movement: cal. 28-255 C, automatic, stamped with the Geneva seal, 36 jewels, signed
Dial: signed
Case: two-part secured by four screws in the band, 42 mm. wide, signed, underside of bezel numbered 912
With: stainless steel 16 mm Patek Philippe Nautilus bracelet with deployant clasp, approximate overall length of 200 mm., cork presentation box, Extract from the Archives confirming production of the present watch in 1977 and its subsequent sale on 15th November 1978

拍品專文

Consigned by the original owner and entirely fresh to the market, the present watch is a superb early and very fine example of the classic reference 3700/1 “Jumbo” from the second year of Nautilus production, 1977. Accompanied by the equally iconic cork Nautilus box and complete with full-length large 16 mm bracelet, it is a must-have for the serious Nautilus collector.

So rarely these days does such an original unmolested Nautilus 3700/1 from the early years of production come to the open market. Used regularly by its original owner, the case and bracelet remain unpolished, the extremely well preserved type II “Sigma” dial in use from late 1977 is enhanced by white gold luminous indexes just mellowed to a pleasing hue.
The discovery of this watch presents collectors with the increasingly scarce opportunity to own an early and untouched example of this truly landmark reference.

For illustrations and descriptions of the Nautilus see Patek Philippe Museum, Volume II, Patek Philippe; Patek Philippe Steel Watches by John Goldberger and a special thanks to Italian watch enthusiast and historian “mstanga” for his assistance and invaluable research text, “A Study of the Patek Philippe Ref. 3700 “Nautilus”.

Caliber 28-255 C
Generally agreed to be one of the great watch calibers, it was based on the original Jaeger-LeCoultre caliber 920 of 1967 and regarded as one of the most beautiful and refined automatic movements ever produced. Crucially it is also very thin at only 3.15 mm., therefore highly appropriate for the slim and elegant Nautilus. The development of the caliber 920 was partly jointly financed by Patek Philippe, Audemars Piguet and Vacheron Constantin. Audemars Piguet fitted their version, now the revered caliber 2120 into the Royal Oak, a further shared familial link with the Nautilus. Vacheron Constantin’s version became their caliber 1120.

The caliber is 12.5 lignes and has 36 jewels and 19,800 vibrations. It is supplied with the shock-protected free-sprung Gyromax balance with eight rotatable weights allowing rate adjustment without the need for a conventional regulator index. The winding rotor is formed from a beryllium ring with 21K gold rim, this clever design with four additional ruby rollers to support the rotor around its periphery allows the thinness of the movement to remain uncompromised.

The Dials of Nautilus reference 3700/1
Created by Stern Frères, the distinctive striped dials of the Nautilus were entirely hand-made – each line recess is engraved separately. To achieve the aptly named “gray depth of ocean” colour specified by Patek Philippe the dials were painted alternately black and blue several times and then covered with a protective “Zapon” varnish. Early examples often display a degradation of the varnish so that depending on how a watch has been stored over the years, an individual dial may have tropicalized more towards either blue, gray, chestnut or green.
The indexes and hands are made of gold (sometimes erroneously called “steel” on some Extracts from the archives) and filled with luminescent material. The Patek Philippe signature and the outer minute divisions were painted. Below the 6 o’clock index is the word “Swiss” flanked on each side by the “Aprior” mark of two sigma symbols. The Aprior mark was conferred by the “Association pour la Promotion Industrielle de l’Or” on dials made of solid gold or at least with solid gold indexes.

The Nautilus Waterproof Case Ref. 3700/1
The case patent design of original Nautilus, reference 3700/1 was registered on 23rd April 1976. Made for Patek Philippe by Favre-Perret SA, Le Crét du Locle, from 1976 until 1981 when production was transferred to Patek’s own Ateliers Reunis workshops. It comprises two parts, the main body and the bezel, at each side is an “ear” which couples with a corresponding flange, the two parts are secured by lateral screws. A rubber seal sits between the bezel and case body and is thus compressed when subject to water pressure forming a perfect watertight seal. The last three digits of the case number are always stamped on the inside of the bezel. The reference 3700/1 was made in stainless steel, steel and gold, 18K yellow gold, 18K white gold and platinum.

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